a couple of weeks ago i saw a cute blouse in walmart of all places and fell in love with the overlapping pleat on the sleeve. i couldn't wait to try it at home. it is so simple that even a beginner can do this.
using your best-fitting sleeve, trace around the pattern on the seamlines--do not include seam allowances. do your pattern work on your tracing.
if you are using a long-sleeve pattern, cut the tracing so it has a 1" underarm length (or the length that is most flattering for you).
slash the pattern vertically from the center of the hem to but not thru the sleeve cap--do not worry if the line doesn't go directly to the shoulder point.
lay your slashed pattern on another sheet of paper, then using the top of the slash line as the pivot point, spread the sleeve apart at the hem--basically you are opening a pie wedge. the amount to spread depends on how big a pleat you want--the bigger the pleat, the more you spread. i pivoted 1.75" each side of center.
tape the pattern in place so you don't lose the pie wedge you just opened, then draw a new hemline--it will be curved because pivoting the sides makes the ends wing up.
also smooth out the sleeve cap.
add seam allowances and a generous hem allowance--deeper hems are give more body to the bottom of the sleeve. on this blouse i used a 1" hem, in fact i use 1" hems on almost all my short sleeves. TIP--try using a smaller seam allowance on the sleeve cap--i use 1/4"--but if you do this, make sure to adjust the armscye seam allowances to match. the narrow seam allowance makes it much easier to match the seam lines on the opposing curves of the sleeve cap and armscye.
i recommend you fold the pleat into place before setting in the sleeve--it is easier to work with when it is flat. baste it in place so you don't lose the pretty folds, and even go ahead and press up the hem. then when you have the sleeve set into the armscye you don't have to worry about getting the pleat folded properly.
see--wasn't that easy? please give it a try, and feel free to come back and brag about your sleeve in the comments, especially if you have a link to a picture of it to share!
